January 23, 2001
Prepared by:
David Panofsky
448 Jean Street
Madison, WI 53703 USA
Tel: (608) 256-0590
Email: smithpanof@globaldialog.com
"We’ve met our goal of a safe all-diabetic ascent of this great mountain, proving that diabetics who are able to properly manage their health are capable of doing anything," said IDEA 2000 co-founder and expedition leader, David Panofsky.
"This summit is truly a testament to the strength and dedication of all IDEA 2000 team members," said Todd Clare, IDEA 2000’s other co-founder and base camp coordinator, "who are not just diabetics, but incredible people. It was our teamwork and dedication that produced results - an amazing test of our ability to problem solve and accomplish what we set out to do."
The international expedition which was made up of members from six different countries, began assembling in Mendoza, Argentina on December 26, 2000. Dr. Jordi Admetlla, IDEA 2000 lead physician and researcher from Catalunya-Spain and member of the Barcelona-based Institut d’Estudis de Medicina de Muntanya, spent the next three days pleading with Argentine customs authorities to release a cargo shipment of medical supplies and first aid kits for the expedition held up in customs.
A day behind the rest of the expedition who were acclimatizing at the ski area of Penitentes (8500 feet, 2575 meters), Dr. Admetlla was finally given "an option" that he could provide a bond for the full retail value of the medical goods entering Argentina as a guarantee – a cost of over $ 750 which Admetlla did not have – to ensure goods would not be sold in Argentina. To make matters worse, credit cards and traveler’s checks were not accepted, banks were closed, and customs offices were to close for the next four days for holidays. It was through the goodwill of an anonymous customs employee who gave a personal loan of $350 to Dr. Admetlla (having read about the diabetic expedition through an article published in the Mendoza press) that IDEA 2000 was able to receive first aid kits and other important expedition supplies.
On December 30, 2000, the entire expedition, transporting more than 1300 kg of supplies with the help of pack mules, began a 3-day trek towards base camp. New Year’s Eve was celebrated at Casa de Piedra, a campsite located at the confluence of the Vacas and Relinchos rivers. On January 1, 2001 the expedition reached base camp at Plaza Argentina at 13,700 feet (4200 meters). On January 4, 2001 summit team members made a first carry to Camp 1 at 16,400 feet (5000 meters) and spent a windy night at Camp 1 on January 6. Camp 2 at 19,400 ft (5900 meters) was reached on January 7, yet not established until January 11 due to poor weather.
The summit was reached on January 12, 2001 in the early afternoon after more than ten hours of climbing above Camp 2 in sub-zero degree Fahrenheit conditions with strong winds by ten out of eleven expedition members via the Falso de los Polacos route. Diabetic mountaineers Doug Bursnall (Wales), Lisa Seaman (USA), Marco Peruffo (Italy), Vittorio Casiraghi (Italy), Chris Meloche (USA), Katherine Brandt-Wells (Canada), and Emilio Valés (Spain) reached the summit. David Panofsky (USA) turned back 600 feet from the summit due to factors unrelated to his diabetes. Also reaching the summit were the non-diabetics Jordi Admetlla (Spain, expedition doctor), Greg Ritchie (USA,videographer), and Bob Manwell (USA, public affairs manager).
Diabetic climbers Peruffo, Seaman, Casiraghi, and Panofsky rested January 13, 2001 at Camp 2 while other successful summit members made their way to base camp with extremely heavy loads after moving gear from Camps 1 and 2. On January 14, 2001 the four who remained at Camp 2 departed at 4 am for the Polish Glacier and formed two rope teams. The four were poised for reaching the summit via the Polish Direct route, until a radio call from the climbers alerted base camp that weather was deteriorating, and conditions were dangerous to continue. The four made a hasty descent to their tents at Camp 2 for a cold and snowy night. Panofsky, Seaman, Casiraghi and Peruffo returned the following day to base camp. The entire expedition permanently left base camp on January 16, 2001.
The summit team was supported by a trekking team consisting of: Todd Clare (USA), Elise Read (USA), Jeremy Ackerman (USA), Petr Michalik (Czech Republic), Terra Thomas (USA), David Downs (USA), Dr. Mark Timmerman (USA) and Jay Handy (USA). Members of the trekking team maintained a daily "webcast" on the progress of the group on IDEA 2000’s web site.
Part of expedition members’ daily routine throughout the expedition - beginning and ending in Mendoza - was recording data for the research effort coordinated by Dr. Admetlla. Each expedition member recorded in their "Jordi Journal" – as the members fondly referred to their log book - insulin usage, carbohydrate intake, atmospheric pressure, heart rate, blood oxygen saturation, exercise, and more.
Dr. Admetlla will be analyzing these thousands of data over the upcoming months in addition to performing controlled studies in the laboratory conditions (hypobaric chambers simulating low atmospheric pressures) in Barcelona hoping to answer a basic question: do insulin needs for diabetic at altitude increase, decrease, or remain constant. One preliminary finding from the expedition, was the need to account for slower digestion at altitude (which has been documented in the literature for non-diabetics), requiring insulin doses to be stretched out over a number of hours after eating, particularly at evening meals.
Throughout the expedition, the diabetic members were successfully able to adjust blood glucose levels, through frequent blood glucose monitoring, and the ability to delivery insulin in extreme conditions. Three of the successful summit members who also used insulin infusion pumps, wore custom bags close to their bodies bags designed and produced by Panofsky to keep pumps, monitors, and insulin warm. Keeping supplies unfrozen and readily available was key to the groups success to monitoring and adjusting blood glucose levels.
In keeping with IDEA 2000’s philanthropic goals, at the end of the expedition, all of the expedition first aid supplies, extra diabetes supplies, and food were donated to local organizations and charities. The expedition donated first aid kits to the doctor of the Provincial Park Authority of Aconcagua who was stationed at Plaza Argentina and in need of medicines. The local diabetes association, MIPADI, of Mendoza, received blood glucose monitors, test strips, and insulin. The local food pantries of Mendoza received over 150 pounds of quality food from the expedition.
These donations are in addition to the funds raised by IDEA 2000 – nearly $75,000 to date - which will be distributed in 2001 to Insulin For Life, the Declaration of the Americas on Diabetes, and the International Diabetes Federation’s South and Central American Region – all doing important work to supply insulin, blood glucose monitoring supplies and education to needy diabetics in Latin America.
Clare stated, "in addition to raising awareness of the plight of many diabetics in Latin America and the developing world who lack access to basic diabetes education and treatment, we want to tell the world that anyone with the right approach can accomplish their goals." Clare added - "We struggle with the daily control of our diabetes, just as millions of diabetics do. We want to help ensure that anyone diagnosed with diabetes is told not only of dietary restrictions, insulin injections, and complications, but also of possibilities, capabilities, and of a team of diabetics who decided to ‘Climb Beyond Diabetes’ ."
All expedition expenses were paid by expedition members and with the 2000 LifeScan Athletic Achievement Award received by Panofsky in July of 2000. The expedition was fortunate to receive from a number of generous donors and sponsors – individual airline tickets as well as expedition gear, food, diabetes supplies, and more.
The expedition made the deliberate choice months prior to departure to not use the services of professional guides to assist with logistics and climbing decisions. Expedition leader Panofsky explained that this choice controlled expedition expenses, allowed for more flexibility, and was what the group - made up of experienced mountaineers - preferred. "The fact that this was all our expedition and our full responsibility did put a large burden on us in terms of organizing food and logistics for the entire group, but this was something we were able to do as a team and this gave us strength," said Panofsky.
Type 1 Diabetes Mellitus (Juvenile Diabetes) is believed to be an autoimmune disease. For Type 1 diabetics, cells in the pancreas that make the hormone insulin are destroyed by the body’s immune system. Insulin is the hormone that enables the body’s cells to use glucose. In Type 1 diabetics, who lack insulin, the level of glucose in the blood rises to dangerous levels, while the cells that need that glucose to survive cannot absorb it. Additionally, the high glucose levels in the blood cause complications such as blindness, nerve damage, amputations, poor circulation, chronic infections, coma, and even death.
Only with proper management -- a combination of blood sugar monitoring, multiple daily insulin injections, exercise, a proper diet, and regular medical checkups – can Type 1 diabetics attempt to prevent these complications and live normal healthy lives. Even with consistent, strict care, many diabetics still develop these complications. IDEA2000 is a non-profit organization with the overall mission of promoting better health for diabetics worldwide. Tax-deductible donations can be sent to IDEA 2000, Inc., 448 Jean St. Madison, WI 53703, USA. More information can be found on the web at www.idea2000.org.
Thanks to IDEA 2000 expedition members and those who supported us. What’s next?
| Thanks to our sponsors | |
 |
|
 |
|
Thank you Fernando Grajales for your outfitter services and support of the premise that diabetics who have access to essential tools like education and medicines can accomplish anything they desire. |
 |  |  |  |
 |  |  |  |
The Ascentials -  | Pemba Services &  |  |  |
 |  | First Aid supplies by : Farmacia Berta Nofre | |
| Hucks Adventure Foods | BackCountryFood.com | Vancouver Island Tea Factory | Healthco Canada |
