July 24, 2005 - ABC (Camp 1) 4405 meters

Today was our first full day at advanced base camp (ABC) taking a deserved rest.  All the expedition with the exception of Gerardo and Maurizio, who have already left Achik Tash for home, are here at ABC.  Life here isn't nearly as plush as Achik Tash.  No comfy yurts, 800 meters higher, and meals which dont quite meet the standards of BC.  Tomorrow morning two rope teams will head up to Camp 2 for a carry and a night at 5300 meters.  This morning the Italian Machine consisting of Marco, GP, Beppe, Mattia, Paolino, and videographer Lino cranked up in 4 hours and pitched three tents and carried up other things to help with the establishment of Camp 3.  Doug, Lisa, Nikki, and I are planning on leaving our cozy sleeping bags at 5 am for a mellow trip up to Camp 2.  Later a rope team of Vito, Mauro, and Paolo will also join us for a night at Camp 2.  ABC is located in a spectacular place and the beginning of the route is minutes from our tents.  We are on top of the glacier, but on glacial debris.  The whole north face of Pik Lenin and connecting mountains and ridges loom 2600m above and provide for a humbling backdrop.  The route is straight forward and we hope to have a little lunch and a brew at Camp 2 and settle in for the night.  If Vito's group feels good, they'll make a carry to Camp 3 (6300 m) the following day.   The Anglo rope team will see how it goes and do what feels right.  The weather seems to have a pattern: hotter 'n hell in the morning and early afternoon which disintegrates into clouds, boomers and lightning, and light granular snow.  It's been below freezing every night.  We are strong and feel good and send our love to everyone at home following our journey.

DP and the rest of the gang