IDEA 2000, Inc. co-founder, director 

I was born in 1967 and  have been diabetic since May 94. I've always loved mountains and climbing. I started climbing mountains at the age of nine, with my parents. Later I started rock climbing, ice climbing, winter climbing and paragliding. I also practice mountain skiing and, around ten years ago, I did quite a lot of competition activity in that discipline. In 1990 I went for my first time to the Himalayas, we were a group of good friends, and that was an incredible adventure. We climbed Pumori 7165m, a very beautiful mountain just next to Everest, and on the way home we were already thinking about a next expedition. In the Pyrenees and Alps I always climbed as much as I could, in winter or in summer. I specially like classic routes of which I have read about: I climbed N. face of Eiger, big routes on rock and ice in Mont Blanc massif, and also routes in Dolomiti (Tre Cime, Civetta, Marmolada...)

I've always understood climbing as a way of having fun and amuse myself. I've spent my best moments in life climbing. I climb for pleasure, with my friends, and I try to choose objectives in which I can have a good time and do them without suffering or risking my life. In 92 we climbed a route in S face of Shishapangma 8008 m, a splendid snow route direct to the summit, and in 93 I took part in a '"traditional" expedition to Everest at which I was invited.

And suddenly, in May 94, while opening a new route in a massif near Barcelona, I started to get thinner and to pee a lot, and I became diabetic. I had already started a project to go to Everest in 95, we wanted to climb the Hornbein Couloir, on its North Face, and at that moment I thought everything was finished for me. Doctors told me diabetics could not climb at high level, that it was dangerous, there were no experience with altitude and diabetes, and so on. I was depressed, I asked but could not find any diabetic climber, my climbing future seemed very black.

After some days of depression I started to study everything I found on diabetes and understand what happened in me, with the help and support of my friends I started climbing again, first short climbs, then longer ones, and that same summer I could do some big climbs in the Alps: Walker spur in Grandes Jorasses, Freney Pillar in Mont Blanc, Bonatti Pillar in Petit Dru, and in Dolomiti. I managed to be in good control, I felt strong, and I started to become confident again. Next winter I did some difficult routes (Linceul in Grandes Jorasses, winter climbs in the Pyrenees), with very low temperatures and good results, and by then I knew I was going to try Everest. We went, I reached 8500 without oxygen on 11th October, we went back because of the cold and strong wind, but I always felt well (at least as well as one can feel up there) and strong, stronger than anyone else in the group. Since then I've gone on climbing, in the Pyrenees, Alps, some smaller peaks in the Himalayas, and in 1997 I came to the USA and had a good time climbing El Cap.

Now I am convinced that diabetes is not an impediment for climbing difficult routes and high mountains, and that's why I think IDEA 2000 is so important: to show that to the world, to help climbers that become diabetic and diabetics who want to be climbers but don't dare, to learn more about altitude and diabetes, to show what we can do to many doctors that are still reluctant, and to be a good example of illusion and inspiration to all diabetics and people with chronic illnesses or disabilities.

Apart from climbing I have to earn my living. For that I am a Civil Engineer, trying to finish my PhD in Hydraulics at University (Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya) where I also teach. I am on multiple injections of Humalog (one each time I eat) and NPH (2 a day). I live with my wife, she also climbs, and we both took part in an expedition to Gasherbrum II (8035m) in 1999. The weather was very stormy but I was luky to reach the summit with two frinds of mine. Now we are expecting a baby for June 2000,  while I still dream in being on top of Everest one day.

About Ernest Bladé

Ernest Bladé is one of the most accomplished diabetic mountaineers of the world, with climbing and mountaineering experience rivaling the world's top professional climbers. 

Soon after being diagnosed with insulin dependent diabetes in 1994, Mr. Bladé was told that his climbing days were over. Through education and proper diabetes management, Mr. Bladé proved to himself and his climbing partners that his diabetes would not be an obstacle to achieving goals and only months after his diagnosis, he went to Everest and reached 8500 meters (less than 300 meters from the summit) without oxygen via the North Ridge. Mr. Bladé has pioneered a proven system to monitor blood glucose levels in extreme conditions, which has been key to maintaining good glycemic control in order to accomplish difficult climbing objectives. As director of IDEA 2000, Mr. Bladé has played an essential role as liaison with the Institut d'Estudis de Medicina de Muntanya and with IDEA 2000 South American aid partners. He is a source of both inspiration and information to members of IDEA 2000 and provides thoughtful insight to the direction of IDEA 2000. 

Since the age of 9, Mr. Bladé has been climbing mountains. His resume on rock, snow, mixed terrain, and at high altitude is extensive, both pre and post diabetes. He has reached the summit of hundreds of summits in the Pyrenees and Alps during summer and winter. He has participated in more than a half-dozen Himalayan expeditions, including two to Everest. In 1992, Mr. Bladé reached the summit of Shishapangma (8008 meters), alpine-style, via a second ascent of the Swiss/Polish route and in 1999 he reached the summit of Gasherbrum II (8035 meters), also in the Himalaya. In 1997, Mr. Bladé completed the famous rock climbing test-piece, Yosemite's El Cap Salathé Wall in a world-class speed of a day and a half. As a diabetic, Mr. Bladé has completed such famous routes as the Walker Spur and Linceul routes on the Grandes Jorasses; the Freney Ridge on Mont Blanc; the North Face of the Droites; the American Direct and Bonatti Pillar routes on the Petit Dru. A few pre-diabetes noteworthy ascents include the North Face of the Eiger; the Supercouloir on Mt Blanc du Tacul; Pumori (7,165 meters) on the Nepali/Tibetan border. 

Mr. Bladé is a climbing and paragliding instructor, serves on a UIAA Safety Committee, and enjoys mountain biking. He is also an accomplished alpine skier and ski mountaineer and especially enjoys climbing alpine-style and climbing routes with unique histories and legends.

Born and raised in Barcelona, Catalunya-Spain, Mr. Bladé completed his undergraduate work in Civil Engineering at the Polytechnic University of Catalunya in Barcelona where he currently teaches and is working towards a PhD in Civil Engineering. His native language is Catalan, though is equally fluent in Spanish and speaks English flawlessly. Mr. Bladé uses MDI therapy and his diabetic control is considered excellent.