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Flávio de Aguiar |
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My name is Flávio de Aguiar, but mountain
people call me Flávio Doce (Sweet Flavio). I'm sweet since 1988 december (dec, 15th
is my second birthday after that), I'm 30 years old by now, and my first adventure in
mountain was a trekking in 3 days that links 2 cities in the Rio de Janeiro mountains, in
1991: Petropolis and Teresopolis. I was worried about having a blood drop to make blood
glucose test for Haemoglukotest in cold time and I used the glicosuria test using a urine
test tablet "Clinitest". Everything was fine and then I knew that I could make
the blood test with no problems. Anyway I became a climber in 1993 by a Climbing Course in
a Mountaineering Club and it was a great passion for my life. By now I'm the president of
the Clube Excursionista Light (one of the 6 mountaineering clubs in Rio) -
www.geosfera.com.br/cel and one of the editors of the climbing site Hang On -
www.hangon.com.br - I'm one of the moderators of a Climbing and Mountaineering e-mail list
and a Climbing Leader for my club. I'm a medium climber (5.10/5.11), but a safe guy who
knows how to realize a rescue and use/teach the safeness rules and first aid for
mountaineering. The Brazil mountaineering is different of US, cause we only have rock
climbing, not ice and our most difficult route is a 5.14b (in brazilian classified
difficult system it's an 11a) that only 1 climber has redpointed, but the exuberance
nature is a real and constant invite to the Outdoor Activities.
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Well, I have climbed a lot here and my best
regards are about the tradicional climbs, not sport climbs. I prefer the smearing technic
and the best option is the route Infinita Highway (5.10d), on the Escalavrado Peak with
720 meters of extension and 18 pitches. Very beautiful climbs too are in the 3 Picos (3
peaks) where there is the Face Leste do Pico Maior (5.9) with 800 meters and 19 pitches
and CERJ (5.9) at the Capacete Peak with 13 pitches. In Rio we have the Lagartão (5.11)
with 11 pitches in the Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf), one of the best climbs that and the
Patrick White (5.11, a lie back all with friends and nuts) in the Irmão Maior do Leblon,
in front of the Rocinha Slum, thas was the hardest one for me.
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In my 1998 vacation I was to Inka Trail and
could climb the Huayna Potosi (6.088) until the Argentino Field (5.700 m , my first
experience in snow and ice), at Bolivia. This year (2002) I realized an old dream, beeing
the first diabetic to "climb" (it's a hard trekking in fact) the summit of the
Pico da Neblina (Neblina Peak, 3.014m), the highest in Brazil, in the Amazon Forest
frontier between Brazil and Venezuela. It was an unforgettable trip, inside a real forest
for 10 days with 25 Kg in the backpack. It seems a different country with more river than
anything else. My 1st day of this year was in the summit of this beautiful
mountain. It was great and I'll send you some shots of this place and measuring the blood
glucose and insulin in hand (and arm).
I'm a motorcycle lover and my next planning
is to go by motorcycle to Patagonia in the end of this year and january next and see the
Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy (just see, I'm not ready for this climb, yet...) and climb during
the trip. I have another plan that is a Sweet climb with a friend that has formed like
climbing leader just like me. I would like to do that in the Diabetes World Day and who
knows anything sweet else.
Sweet regards,
Flávio "Doce" de Aguiar
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